Investigating Raw Milk: A Detailed Report
In June, ProPublica published an investigative story I reported on Mark McAfee, the owner of America’s largest raw-milk dairy. This story emerged following extensive research into how Trump administration policies were transforming federal health agencies. My team spoke with numerous civil servants, uncovering fears about the politicization of routine science. Raw milk was a striking example they pointed out, which experts agree lacks verified nutritional benefits compared to pasteurized milk and exposes consumers to significantly higher risks of foodborne diseases.
Under Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s leadership, the federal stance on raw milk was shifting. Kennedy publicly advocated for raw milk and celebrated its inclusion in a federal report aiming to ‘Make America Healthy Again’ with raw-milk toasts at the White House. For over twenty years, McAfee has championed raw dairy, which has moved from fringe to mainstream, now consumed by over 10 million Americans. From 2023 to 2024, national weekly sales increased by 65%, with McAfee’s farm generating around $30 million annually. However, this success invites scrutiny; federal and state regulators correlate his business with numerous recalls and outbreaks, leading to hundreds of illnesses.
Raw milk’s popularity puzzled me: How did it expand so widely despite recurring outbreaks of pathogens like salmonella and E. coli? Conversations with McAfee offered insight. Through a comprehensive visit to his farm, I delved into our interactions, supplemented by my investigative findings.
“I’m begging you to say: ‘This is not anti-science, this is extremely pro-science. … It’s using science that is not conveniently accepted yet.”
McAfee argues the benefits of raw milk, despite established scientific consensus emphasizing the risks. The lack of pasteurization in raw milk presents a significant health threat, notably to young children. While modern hygiene practices strive to minimize contamination, the risk from harmful bacteria remains inherent. Scientific reviews fail to endorse supposed benefits, with experts warning it is unsafe.
McAfee cites anecdotal evidence from families who claim health transformations after consuming raw milk. He claims these stories provide unique insights overlooked by institutions. He also criticizes governmental reluctance to invest in research to evaluate its benefits.
“I’ve put a couple kids in the hospital, and they have been sick, but they recovered. … But here’s the thing: I’m a pioneer. And I’m going against the grain here. I’m climbing a mountain they say you can’t climb.”
In 2006, six individuals, with a median age of 8, contracted E. coli from McAfee’s farm. Among them was Chris Martin, who suffered permanent kidney damage from the infection. Despite this, McAfee instituted standards for unpasteurized dairies, an effort that did not eliminate customer illnesses. Recalls were frequent from 2007 to 2016, yet disputes arise over regulatory proof linking his farm to outbreaks.
Since 2006, over 230 have fallen ill across eight outbreaks tied to McAfee’s farm, with at least 40 requiring hospitalization. Experts suggest these figures are underestimated, as many recover privately without seeking medical testing.
“We have a red-flag system here, where if there’s anything that gets really out of whack, they can immediately tag the milk, and it doesn’t go to anything but cheese. … Because, you know, cheese is resistant to pathogens.”
Research contradicts McAfee’s claims about cheese resistance to pathogens. Although aging may reduce risks, bacteria can survive the common maturation period. His farm admitted using milk with pathogens for cheese but denied allegations when regulators investigated. In 2024, the FDA ordered the farm to cease producing cheese with contaminated milk. McAfee argued compliance with federal aging regulations and testing cheese pre-sale.
Political shifts under Trump administration, with Kennedy’s engagement, delayed court actions against the farm, leaving practices unaltered. McAfee downplayed the withdrawn enforcement as a triumph facilitated by his consumer-targeted educational strategies.
“They have the guns and the money. I got the truth and the moms.”
Despite growing evidence against raw milk safety, McAfee leaned on consumer belief and disregarded regulatory warnings. Online influencers amplified his messages, resonating with wide audiences. The Justice Department relinquished legal pursuits against him, prioritizing Kennedy’s viewpoints. Campaigns focusing on raw milk’s supposed health benefits preempted government interventions.
Shortly after my farm visit, another outbreak tied to Raw Farm cheese emerged. Nine people across three states were infected, with over half being children under five. It took weeks for McAfee’s farm to issue a recall despite negative pathogen tests.
“Our sales are highest they’ve ever been, and feedback online with influencers is: If the FDA says something, do the opposite. It’s safer. They don’t trust them at all.”
The FDA closed the investigation without imposing actions against the farm. McAfee maintained raw cheese production, claiming improved practices. Large retail chains resumed carrying his products, while regulatory trust dwindled among his supporters.