Exploring the Evolution of Tabor Hill Winery
In my early years working with The South Bend Tribune and The Vidette-Messenger, my knowledge of wine was limited. In 1992, as a new Valparaiso University graduate, my choices were mostly economical, such as Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill and my Uncle Swede’s homemade wines. My first notable introduction to wine came when Chuck Small, my editor, assigned me to cover a wine pairing dinner hosted by the American Wine Society in Union Pier, Michigan. This event broadened my perspective on local wines from southwest Michigan.
Today, Tabor Hill Winery stands as a prominent name in Michigan’s wine industry, celebrating its 60th anniversary. Its history includes being featured at White House state dinners, with President Gerald Ford and First Lady Betty introducing their Vidal Blanc at a 1974 dinner. Even President Ronald Reagan included Tabor Hill’s wines during his tenure despite his preference for Californian wines.
During a visit to the winery, I spoke with Rick Moersch, the patriarch, and his son Matt Moersch, who now serves as CEO. They discussed how climate change is impacting grape production, necessitating a shift to varieties better suited to current conditions. Tabor Hill is noted for pioneering the planting of Riesling grapes in Michigan, contributing to its diverse offerings.
“We strive to maintain our commitment to quality and adaptability,” CEO Matt Moersch emphasized during our meeting amid the 60 acres of vineyards in Buchanan.
New culinary innovations complement Tabor Hill’s wine offerings. Chef Justin Carlisle, a James Beard nominee, has crafted a menu highlighting local ingredients, such as the homemade “gaufrettes” served with creamy onion dip and smoked trout roe. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Bo Durham, is known for his carrot cake and a unique “million-dollar cookie,” featuring Michigan cherries and brewer’s malt.
Years ago, Chef John Paul Verhage, a previous executive chef, shared his expertise with ramps, a flavorful wild onion found in the Kalamazoo area. He once lamented over the high market cost despite their local abundance. Today, ramps play a crucial role in a hummus recipe he provided, offering a unique culinary experience when paired with chilled white wine.
Ramp Hummus Recipe
Ingredients:
- 1 can (16oz) chickpeas, liquid reserved
- 1/4 cup chickpea liquid
- 3-5 tablespoons lemon juice
- 1 1/2 tablespoons tahini
- 1 cup caramelized ramp bulbs
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
Directions:
- Drain chickpeas, reserving liquid.
- Combine all ingredients in a blender, adding 1/4 cup of chickpea liquid.
- Blend until smooth, adjusting lemon juice to taste.
- Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and additional fresh ramps, alongside crackers or pita.
For more, visit Tabor Hill’s website at taborhill.com.