Halal Barbecue Thrives in Texas Amid Political Tensions

In Fort Worth, Texas, Goldee’s BBQ has become a must-visit spot for barbecue enthusiasts. On a hot Saturday morning in June, nearly 100 people queued outside the wooden-shack restaurant. Among them was Thanh Huynh, who had been waiting since 6:30 a.m., eager to indulge in a variety of meats and sides listed on his phone.

Established in 2020 by Huynh’s friends, Goldee’s gained fame quickly. Texas Monthly crowned it the state’s top barbecue place in 2021, and it achieved further recognition with a Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin Guide.

The restaurant serves traditional Texas barbecue, including pork belly and ribs. Additionally, their menu includes halal options like brisket, turkey, and lamb, prepared following Islamic guidelines.

As Republican leaders intensify their focus on the state’s Muslim communities, venues like Goldee’s continue to prosper. Muslim pitmasters are redefining Texas barbecue, incorporating their own unique styles.

Other establishments, such as Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, have joined the trend. These spots offer diverse menus featuring halal meats, including unique items like brisket shawarma sandwiches.

Haris Ghaffar, a patron who traveled from Celina, appreciates the variety of halal offerings. In the 1990s, Ghaffar recalled that his dining options were limited, citing a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish as one of the few halal choices available. Now, halal food is a thriving industry integrated into American dining culture.

Food writer Farhan Mustafa, author of an article on American halal barbecue, stressed that halal foods are integral to American cuisine. He observed that Muslims are making notable contributions to Texas barbecue by integrating their culinary traditions.

Goldee’s pitmaster Zain Shafi previously operated Sabar Barbecue. He brought innovations like tandoori smoked turkey to the menu. Shafi ensures that their meats are of the highest quality by using halal cuts.

Nupohn Inthanousay, a co-owner of Goldee’s, infuses his Laotian heritage into dishes like smoked Lao sausage with sticky rice.

Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi, owner of Kafi BBQ, combines halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices with traditional Texas barbecue elements. His goal is to compete with the best barbecue in Texas while challenging conventional norms.

Abdul-Kafi, who previously worked in Silicon Valley, sought a culinary challenge and a connection to the Muslim community. After refining his recipes, he established Kafi BBQ, offering dishes like 13-spice Wagyu brisket and pomegranate-glazed beef belly.

Amid a climate of political hostility towards Muslims, ventures like Abdul-Kafi’s showcase integration through culinary excellence. He views halal barbecue as a rebuttal to Islamophobia, contributing to Texas’ renowned cuisine.

Houston native Muhammad Sohail appreciates the cultural blend represented in venues like Kafi BBQ. The merging of halal traditions into Texas culture mirrors his dual identity as both a Texan and a Muslim.

Areeba Ali, a Dallas resident with Indian roots, highlighted the restaurant’s broad appeal. The diversity of patrons at halal barbecue spots shows that these establishments resonate beyond any single community.

For Mustafa, the enduring popularity of halal barbecue underscores the resilience and integration of Muslim American communities within U.S. culture.