Reopening of Cole’s: A Historic French Dip Restaurant Returns to LA
Cole’s, one of Los Angeles’ oldest and most iconic restaurants, known for its French dip sandwich, is set to reopen after closing in March. Chef and entrepreneur Jeremy Fall, who grew up near the restaurant, is leading the revival. Cole’s, which opened in 1908 as Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet, has a rich history of serving commuters and hosting famous personalities like Mickey Cohen and Charles Bukowski.
Since August, Fall and Sean Maloney, a former chief hospitality officer, have been working on restoring Cole’s. They plan to reopen it by November.
The sale of Cole’s has been in progress for over a year due to various challenges faced by the previous owner, Pouring With Heart hospitality group. The pandemic, strikes in the entertainment industry, and rising labor costs contributed to its closure.
Fall shares a personal connection with Cole’s, having frequented it in his youth. Despite the emotional response to its closure, he considered taking on its revival when approached by Pouring With Heart.
The team currently holds a temporary liquor license, awaiting full approval. Their goal is to offer a refreshed dining experience, drawing inspiration from other renowned restaurants. They aim to create a lasting presence and contribute to the city.
The new Cole’s will still feature its classic French dips, cocktails, and atomic mustard, along with an expanded menu including white tablecloth service and pasta. Maintaining the historical ambiance is crucial; some modern updates have been introduced while retaining key fixtures like the plaques and booths with historical significance.
Fall and Maloney have appointed Daniel Nguyen as head chef, who will bring new dishes like fresh ravioli and prime rib frites. The French dip will be reimagined with a dry-brined prime rib and robust flavor profiles, accompanied by pastrami and vegan options.
Local bakery Clark Street Bread is collaborating to create a new sandwich roll, balancing tradition with modern tastes. Fall and Maloney regard this as an opportunity to honor and modernize Cole’s legacy.
The revived dining room will feature new elements, such as a player piano and elegant dinnerware. Fall, known for successful ventures like Nighthawk and a smoothie pop-up, is keen on perfecting the French dip, believed by some to have originated at Cole’s rather than Philippe’s.
The cocktail menu will be classic yet innovative. Meanwhile, plans for the space previously occupied by The Varnish bar are still under wraps but will be used for private events temporarily.
Pouring With Heart’s Cedd Moses emphasized the importance of respecting Cole’s legacy in selecting new ownership. Though his restaurants faced closures, his bars remain successful. The renewed interest in Cole’s and its history shows promise for its future.
Moses conveys confidence in the new ownership, noting their deep personal connection to Cole’s history. He pledges ongoing support to ensure the restaurant’s success in the community.