Asadero Gains Popularity with Premium Tacos

For months, Emiliano “Ruben” Martinez faced slow interest at his taqueria, Asadero. But his belief in his high-quality, charcoal-grilled steak tacos never wavered. Having been a chef at Mírate in Los Feliz, where tacos reached $9 or $10, he knew convincing customers to pay $5 or $6 on the street would be challenging.

Patience paid off. The Hollywood taco stand now draws large crowds eager to wait up to three hours for Wagyu, USDA Prime, or Angus tacos. Other offerings include pork al pastor, plancha-seared pollo, and chile relleno. Asadero has joined the ranks of noted L.A. taquerias like Sonoratown and Tacos Los Cholos, expanding the city’s taco scene. Martinez emphasizes that diverse taco styles exist, reflecting Mexico’s 32 regions.

His signature gaonera taco features a four-ounce rib-eye steak cooked over mesquite charcoal. Meanwhile, thicker skirt steaks are diced for arrachera tacos. Crispy beef trimmings offer a cost-effective option at $1.

All beef at Asadero is seasoned slightly with Sonora-style salt, enhancing the meat’s flavor. Al pastor involves a lengthy marinade with house tepache. Customers choose from flour or blue corn tortillas made locally.

Martinez’s upbringing in Mexicali—a region rich in food culture—never initially led him toward a culinary career. When he moved to Las Vegas for his psychology education, he worked in various kitchens to fund his studies. It wasn’t until 2011 that he realized his potential in the food industry.

He gained valuable experience working in top Las Vegas locations like Caesar’s Palace and the Belaggio. His roles included learning steak handling techniques and managing high-volume operations. Martinez found himself embracing the competitive nature of Las Vegas kitchens.

After relocating to Los Angeles in 2016, his journey included roles at The Cheesecake Factory, Bottega Louie, and later Mírate. Street food around Los Angeles served as inspiration for his venture, leading to Asadero’s eventual Hollywood location.

“Repeat customers kept us going initially,” Martinez stated.

Hollywood resident Luke Skywalker (his real name) visits Asadero frequently. He praised Martinez’s cleanliness and the freshness of ingredients.

Mentions on the LA Food Podcast and The Infatuation significantly increased Asadero’s exposure. Martinez adapted quickly, drawing on his high-volume experience from Vegas to enhance service efficiency. Longer lines became shorter waits, down from three hours to 15 or 20 minutes.

Despite recent success, criticism arose over original corn tortillas breaking. Martinez addressed this by switching to blue-corn tortillas from Kernel of Truth Organics. Some customers still question the pricing, but Martinez points to fluctuating meat costs and the cultural undervaluing of Mexican cuisine.

The demand has led Martinez to hire more staff to meet catering needs. Anticipating future ventures, he hopes to add a food truck and eventually open his own restaurant. Meanwhile, Asadero continues to thrive with its sidewalk setup in Hollywood, consistently attracting a line of eager diners.

Asadero is located at 723 Vine St., Los Angeles, operating from Thursday to Sunday, 6 to 11:30 p.m.