Indus Progressive Indian Receives Acclaim for Culinary Blends
Indus Progressive Indian, an acclaimed restaurant influenced by Midwestern cuisine, celebrates family recipes from North India and modernizes them with dishes like smoky masala beef brisket and spicy pork belly vindaloo. Located on the North Shore, owners Sukhu and Ajit Kalra opened this downtown Highland Park spot in 2024, following their earlier venture, Bhoomi, a casual Indian stall in the Loop in 2021. The restaurant won the Readers’ Choice Award for Suburban Restaurant of the Year in 2025.
The Restaurant Experience
Ajit and Sukhu Kalra’s mission is to honor the ancient Indus Valley civilization, recognized for its early spice blend innovations, while merging the food cultures of India and the U.S. They use their deep understanding of heritage to cater to Chicago’s palate, which often includes meat. Their menu, designed with help from a consulting chef and executed by executive chef Vetri Selvaraj, features dishes that artfully combine cultural traditions with local tastes.
“A lot of India, especially the Hindu population, almost never eats beef.”
Selvaraj, with previous experience at Ettan—a Michelin-recommended Californian Indian restaurant—brings sophistication to Indus. Dishes include tender masala beef brisket, which began as a backyard experiment, and unique pork belly vindaloo. The masala brisket, featuring a dry rub spice and barbecue chutney made with kasuri methi and butter-fried shallots, is smoked for 14 to 18 hours using a Smoke Daddy smoker.
Family Recipes Brought to Highland Park
The restaurant’s dedication to traditional Indian flavors is showcased in Mamma’s chole, a chickpea dish with crispy poori bread from Sukhu’s mother, Virender Kaur. Soaked chickpeas are pressure-cooked with masala, onions, tomatoes, and fresh tamarind pulp. Cooked with whole wheat flour, poori puffs beautifully when fried, and the dish remains the couple’s family favorite.
The pork belly vindaloo, which takes nine days to prepare, highlights traditional Goan style sauce with fermented chiles and vinegar, adding a touch of port wine to nod to its Portuguese influences. Despite its complexity, Ajit emphasizes that the pork serves merely to accentuate the flavors of the sauce.
A Modern Dining Perspective with Tradition
Indus accommodates diverse tastes by offering different heat levels in their dishes. For example, the kurkuri bhindi is a beloved choice for transforming okra into a snack. The daal Indus offers black lentils smoked with ghee, paired with naan for a full meal. Some dishes like the duck kebab require refinement but remain integral to the menu. Dessert offerings like a Valrhona dark chocolate torte provide a unique conclusion to a meal.
A masala chai proves so rich that it often doubles as dessert, and vibrant drinks such as their kokum mezcal cocktail feature well-crafted infusions. With staff who have been with Indus since its opening, the restaurant emphasizes consistency and refined service.
A Community-Driven Culinary Venture
Beyond being a restaurant, Indus serves as a community pillar in Highland Park, especially after the 2022 parade shooting. The Kalras provided meals to support residents, first responders, and those affected. Despite the financial risks of opening a niche restaurant in a lower-density area, the Kalras believe it is a privilege to contribute to their community.
The restaurant’s commitment to preserving community spirit and offering an authentic yet approachable dining experience remains strong despite economic challenges. Menu changes, adapting to current consumer behaviors, and a forthcoming Bhoomi location reflect their ability to balance tradition with innovation.
Visit Indus Progressive Indian at 617 Central Ave., Highland Park. Reservations and more details are available on their website, eatindus.com.